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Beggar’s Purses: Caviar For New Years

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Caviar has always been synonymous with elegance and celebration. There was a time when caviar was fairly reasonable to purchase and would make appearances at my special occasions with frequency. But in the last few years, along with so many hardships, the price of caviar has gone haywire.
I still love caviar, but rarely do I present beluga anymore. I am forced to fall back on it’s distant cousin, Salmon Roe. A bit fishier than sturgeon caviar, but still a delight. Salmon roe is certainly within the price range, my small jar cost me $15. To elevate it to elegance I served it up as Beggar’s Purses. Small pouches made of dill crepes are filled with creme fraiche and caviar all tied up with a scallion tie.
Served up perched on thin slices of lemon makes a dramatic presentation and a swank bit to accompany the sparkling.
The crepes can be made a day in advance but no further. It’s imperative that they be made as thin as humanly possible. The pouch should be delicate and refined- too thick and it feels too bready and clunky. Don’t be afraid to thin the batter down to a heavy cream consistency.
Beggar’s Purses
24 6″ Dill Crepes
4 oz Salmon Roe
8 oz creme fraiche
bunch of long stemmed scallion or bunch of chives
Lemons sliced paper thin
Dill Crepes
2c AP flour
3 large eggs
1c milk
.25t salt
4T chopped fresh dill
water to thin
*use a 6″ nonstick frying pan to make crepes*
In large bowl combine all the ingredients except the water. Stir smooth.
Add water in stages to create a thin, heavy cream consistency. The batter should then rest a half hour or so- the batter can also be made the night before and kept in the fridge overnight.
Warm a 6″ non stick frying pan over medium high heat.
I use cooking spray to grease the pan.
Place ~3T of batter into the pan and swirl to even out the batter.
When edges start to pull away and the crepe looks cooked in the middle, give the crepe a quick flip and cook for just 10-20 seconds on the other side.
Allow crepes to cool before filling.
Building Beggar’s Purses
First blanch the scallions or chives. In a pot of boiling water submerge the greens for 30 seconds, then remove them and plunge into cold water.
If using scallions make thin ribbons by slicing long strips down the length of the scallion.
Lay out a few crepes on a work board. Place a T of creme fraiche in the middle of each.
Using a separate small spoon put about a teaspoon of caviar on top.
Gather up the sides of the crepe pinching together to make a pretty bundle.
Using the scallion or chive to tie the bundle closed.

Testing Pie Crusts: Is ICE COLD necessary?

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hand_pie
The fine art of making pastry doughs has always been a bit of a mystery to me. Sure, I’ve baked countless cakes (thousands), but pastry is a whole ‘nother thang. What also has always alluded me was how something so basic can turn out so differently so easily. Flour, butter, salt and water? a snap right?
I once watched an episode of Martha Stewart Living years ago. She spoke in religious tones about how her Polish Mother kept everything ice cold which was sure to be the path to righteous flaky crust. However, I did all that- chilled the flour, kept the water in ice cubed suspension and worked so fast it raised my adrenaline levels through the roof. It was a “good thing” and I was leaving no holds barred.
The result was ok, but not ethereal. So what’s up with that?
As is often the case in my life, I got a little buggy about figuring this all out. I decided to go on a quest and pulled out and up several different recipes and methods for making pie/tart dough.
What was fascinating to me was the depth and breadth of the different recipes. I am sure some degreed Pastry Master can explain the different qualities and uses for the different types. Sure, sweetened for one thing, more rustic for another, delicateness for one, durability for another, but in the end… for me… let’s just get one our two down and then work out specific uses. There was something in the method, I would sort out the madness later.
So after some perusal I came up with two different types/styles to try. One was classic cold cold cold from Tartine. The second used softened butter and milk- something I had never heard of before- out of Sarabeth’s new cookbook.
Both used the basic same ingredients- with the milk as an exception. But no cream cheese, or other fats, and no mixture of flours or eggs. Tartine actually gave weights as well as standard measurements. I opted to weigh everything to be scientific about it. Also, to better incorporate the butter I grated the cold butter onto a plate and then onto a scale. This just makes the first stage of cutting the butter into the flour faster and some say better.
 
Tartine: Flaky Tart Dough
 
1tsp salt
2/3 c water, very cold
3c +2T ap flour
1c + 5T sweet butter, very cold
 
Combine dry ingredients in a food processor. Add the butter and process until pea sized crumbs evolve. Dribble in the water until the mass comes together and forms a ball.
 
Remove from bowl and knead a few times. Then shape into 2 discs for a double crust, one one for a large tart. Wrap in plastic and chill 2 hrs or overnight
 
(please refer to the cookbook for more extensive and detailed directions)
 
 




Sarabeth’s Tender Pie Dough
She attributes this recipe to Wendy and Michael London of Mrs. London’s Bakery and Cafe in Saratoga Springs. She states: “not especially flaky”
 
1 3/4 sticks butter, (14 T), cool room temp, in pieces
1/3 c whole milk- she makes no specifications but cold milk just seizes up the butter, so I used cool milk- meaning slightly colder than room temp.
2.5 c AP flour
4t superfine sugar (I omitted)
1/4 salt
 
Beat the butter in a stand mixer with paddle attachment. Dribble in milk and beat to a butter cream consistency.
Add flour gradually and mix until it comes together. Turn out of the bowl and knead a few turns until smooth. Wrap in plastic and chill 30 mins to 1 hr.
 
(please refer to cookbook for more extensive and detailed directions)
And here are the results. First off, I made handpies just for fun and to facilitate tasting. I filled them with this and that which was in my fridge. OK, if you must know: the round pies had sauteed spinach and potatoes with thyme, ricotta and chicken. The half moon pies had ricotta, goat cheese and prosciutto.
I glazed them with an egg yolk/milk mixture and in the photo above I sprinkled some grated Parmesan on top.
The Tartine dough was indeed flakier, and made a delightful crispy crunchy sound when you bit into it. However, the Sarabeth’s version was not far off. I really though it would be a dense, tough crust, not really- not so much.
So why is that? Here is what I truly think: and before I say so I will put out the caveat that I am no expert on this- so please feel free to pipe up and add any insight if you can.
I think the real finesse is in the bringing together of the dough. Yes, you don’t want to overhandle the dough, BUT, you do need to assure thorough incorporation. I think the real devil is the gluten in the flour, which you need to work some up, but not too much. You can give it an inch, but not a mile.
For me this is similar to biscuit/scone making. I was always SO terrified to over work the dough that I under did it. I found when I kneaded just a stroke or two more, it resulted in a beautiful, flaky and tender treat.
And this is a feel thing. To explain: the dough at first is in disarray, trying to pull together is fragments and find consistency. Once managed, it then starts to pull back, it resists. You can feel a slight spring or tightness in the dough. That’s the point that works (for me).
I would love to hear others’ insights.

Sunday Supper- Incredibly Easy and Delicious

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Roasted Tomatoes with Israeli Cous Cous and Goat Cheese

OK kids, this is my down and dirty super fabulous Sunday “It’s been a long week and I’m gonna sit and watch me some serious TV” meal. So easy I’m not writing a recipe, I’m just gonna let her rip.
Take a 28 oz can of Fire Roasted tomatoes and pour into a medium sized backing dish (this is 8×11 or so). Crush tomatoes with fingers right in the pan. Conversely you can used chopped tomatoes. Mince up 3 cloves of garlic and stir in. Grind in some fresh black pepper. Scatter around 1c of Israeli cous cous, uncooked. Then top it off with goat cheese. You can use ricotta here, but the goat is better.
Slide into a preheated 350˚ oven for about 40 mins. It’s ready when the liquid has been mostly absorbed and the cheese is beautifully browned. Sprinkle with some fruity olive oil and toss on some fresh parsley.
Serve with grill toasted baguettes that have been brushed with Olive Oil and a glass of crisp vegetal Sauvignon Blanc.
It’s tangy, garlicy, sweet from the tomatoes- and the smokey crunchy oily toasts are divine.
The fiancee and I usually set the platter between us and dip in with the bread until it miraculously disappears (don’t know how that happens, but it does, every time!)
That’s it! One pan- leave it to soak- and call it a night.