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Raclette: I heart Stinky Cheese!

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The first time I had raclette was at the home of my friends Jeff and Jodie Morgan years ago when they lived out on the North Fork of Long Island. Jeff was a musician then that was just breaking into the wine business. Jody was a homemaker and we were having children in tandem and sharing the ins and out of potty training methodology. Jeff then went on to write about wine for the Wine Spectator and moved the family out to California and was the West Coast Editor for a long time. He is now the owner of Covenant Wines making kosher wines that are sure to be superb. There was a rose too, but I’m not up to date on that.

Jeff had lived in France at some point and the influence permeated their lifestyle. Lazy Sunday afternoons we played Jacques a dit… (Simon says) on the lawn and ate sardines stuffed with herbs right off the grill. Together Jeff and Jody were great cooks and great hosts and it was always delightful spending time with them. I pretty much always came away learning something new, the least of which was how to enjoy raclette.

The name Raclette comes from the French racler-to scrape. Traditionally a large wheel of this pungent semi soft cheese is held to the wood burning fire and the melted cheese scraped onto the waiting plate. This luscious cheese is served with boiled potatoes and cornichons or other pickled vegetables. Cured meats are also often served, but I never had it that way. One is tempted to compare this to fondue, but I would not make the comparison- they are nothing alike.

I cannot begin to tell you the blissful taste of the earthy pungent cheese with the doughy potato and the snap of the pickle. It was one of those taste moments that shock the senses into a different echelon. The reason is that it doesn’t sound all that amazing, but together it is spectacular.

Being a little remiss of a wood burning fireplace in Manhattan, I melt my cheese right onto plates that I put into a warm oven. It only takes a few minutes to melt the cheese and the hot plate maintains the melty loveliness during consumption. Just take care to handle the plate and mind the table top and not burn yourself or the veneer. There are table top grills that are the modern convenience of the day, but I’ve not tried them and prefer this basic and homey method.

This is hearty Winter fare and great to serve among a small group with one large plate in the middle of the table. My preferred wine of choice with Raclette is a flowery Reisling and the one time an off dry is enjoyable, or if you’re not a Reisling fan (and you will be once you have a good one), an aromatic Viognier or Pinot Gris is also delightful.

Coconutty: Grilled Tofu on Coconut Cauliflower and Spinach with Spicy Coconut Sauce

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Grilled Tofu with Spicy Coconut Sauce

The beginnings of my move are underway. Each day is a task of clearing out another section of the loft, separating things from my past and deciding which I will carry with me into the future. This is a cathartic and exciting time. I’ve been great places and I am now on my way to something altogether new. All the things that used to weigh me down and crammed my corners are now an ever lightening load.
Finding time to cook, let alone eat, has been trickier, but when I get to the stove it’s far more satisfying. It’s the constant touchstone and keeps me grounded.
A snowy head of cauliflower has been haunting me every time I open the fridge. Can’t say this healthy cruciferous veg is my fave but it’s growing on me. The bigger challenge is there is SO MUCH of it. What to do… what to do…
Mashing steamed cauliflower is a recipe I came across about 3 years ago. It’s remarkable how tasty it is. The mellowness of the coconut counterbalances the sulphur tang in the cauliflower. I wouldn’t call this mock mashed potatoes, though some do, rather it’s a winner for what it is. There is enough flavor here to pair with some roasted chicken or pork chop, without overpowering the meal with coconut.
Before grilling the tofu I gave the slices a good juicing of lime juice. Not only does this add flavor to what otherwise is bland, but the vitamin C in the juice will aid the absorption of the iron in the spinach.
A quick reduction of the remaining coconut milk after the mashing makes a creamy decadent sauce with healthy fats. This meal may be way too healthy, but more importantly it’s really delicious.
Coconut Tofu with Cauliflower and Spinach
serves 4
 
1 head cauliflower
1 can light coconut milk
1 large bag of spinach chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 lime, zest reserved
generous pinch of red pepper flakes
.5t fish sauce or salt
pinch of sugar
1 block of firm or extra firm tofu
 
 
Break cauliflower into smaller pieces and steam until just tender, not to mush. Add enough coconut milk to make a rustic mash. Add salt to taste.
 
Drain tofu. Slice into .25″ slices and sprinkle generously with lime juice.
 
Place remaining coconut milk, approximately half a can, into a small saucepan and stir in half of reserved lime zest, pepper flakes, fish sauce and sugar. Simmer on medium low until reduced. Adjust seasoning to taste.
 
In large frying pan warm 2T olive oil and sautee garlic gently over medium heat until just cooked. Add rinsed but still damp chopped spinach and sautee. The water from the spinach with add steam and keep the spinach green and bright. Err cooking spinach on the under side to retain as much of the vitamins as possible as well as flavor.
 
Heat a grill pan on medium high. Generously oil pan and grill tofu.
 
Build the dish by laying down the cauliflower down first. Pile on the bright beautiful spinach and then lay down the tofu. Add the remaining zest into the sauce and spoon over the tofu.
 
 
 

Balsamic Poached Pear and Goat Brie Bites

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Pears are poached in balsamic vinegar and cracked pepper

My move is now planned and the boxes are beginning to get packed. Not only has this not deterred me from cooking, but by a quirk has increased my inspiration. The crazy thing is as I dig into my cupboards and cabinets I’m finding pans and tools and platters and things that I had forgotten were in there.

I have been blessed with an inordinate amount of storage space and an insatiable appetite for china and gadgets. Years ago, long before Martha Stewart Magazine had their big studio and kitchen(s), they would sometimes shoot in my loft. I had ovens, refrigeration and counters galore, but what I also had was stuff. As you know the stylists on the magazine are some of the best out there, and also the most nit picky. Often when some prop was in need, or just not right, I would fling open my cabinet doors and pull out more options. The look on people’s faces is always priceless. I REALLY have stuff!
So now, all my memories are spilling out of the dark corners of the platter cabinet (yes, I have an entire 30″ x 48″” cabinet filled to the brim with only platters). It’s been a wonderful time.
This quick and lovely hors d’oeuvres is one of my great fall backs. The pears are also wonderful with a nice thin slice of pate as well. Definitely use a bread toast here to catch the gorgeous balsamic sauce. Crackers won’t cut it.
I usually make these right on the spot which means that they get gobbled up as fast as I can put them down on the platter.
Balsamic Poached Pears w Black Pepper and Brie Toasts
 
serves 12
 
3T apple cider vinegar
2T balsamic vinegar
2T turbinado sugar
cracked fresh black pepper
2 barely ripe pears, peeled and sliced thin
6oz Goat Brie
baguette or sourdough bread for toasts
 
Combine vinegars, sugar and pepper in a small saucepan and warm allowing the sugar to melt.
 
Add the pears and simmer for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let the pears stand in the poaching liquid for 1 hr.
 
Gently remove pears and bring remaining sauce to a low boil and slightly reduce.
 
Toast up your bread and have on the ready. Place a pear slice or two onto the bread and top with a small wedge of the brie.
 
Warm in the oven to just melt the brie. Drizzle with the reserved balsamic sauce and serve.