A Stack of Dishes

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Gail Watson

Sunset Cocktails: The Art of the Shrub

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Oh how I love the sound of ice tinkling in a cocktail glass at the end of a long summer day. As the sunlight casts longer shadows and the heat of the day shimmers the last of its intensity, who could resist a cold glass of sweet elixir that perks up the tongue and mellows the soul.

I was first intrigued by shrubs, or drinking vinegars, after reading an article about Pok Pok Wing. Alan Ricker of Portland, OR fame, opened a small shop in Brooklyn serving his delicious Thai food, and also sells shrubs by the name Som. The description of a “refreshing drink with a nice tartness coming from the vinegar and concentrated flavors of fruit, vegetable and aromatics” got me intrigued immediately. I am a huge fan of aromatics such as bitters and how they can turn a languid sweet drink into a snappy upstart of a cocktail. Just a dash to add bright top notes to the tongue, and an invitation to the nose.

Shrubs have a long history and show up in recipe books before the time of Ben Franklin. The sugar, alcohol and vinegar act as a preservative thereby allowing one to make and store a shrub to then offer a drink at any moment, “…’Tis a pretty wine and cordial. For each tot of rum add a double tot of shrub. At the end of the evening everyone was cordial!” {from The Innkeeper and Butler’s Guide, published in 1808} Shrubs can be a compound of many different fruits, herbs and flowers, and the process couldn’t be simpler.

Strawberry Rose
Shrubs have a terrific shelf life and make a fantastic hostess gift as you head to the beach or to a friend’s home this season. Who wouldn’t love you for bearing nectar? A slug of shrub mixed into basic cocktail ingredients can turn the ordinary vodka tonic into something wildly special- or for those abstaining- it can add perk to that glass of Perrier making one feel like a part of the party without the booze.
There is a cold and a hot method of extracting the flavors from your aromatics. I chose the former, which is far easier and much more conducive to summer life. It takes absolutely no effort at all to mash up some fruit with sugar and then allow it to macerate on the counter overnight. The sugar draws the juice and flavor out of the fruit resulting in a thick sweet syrup that takes absolutely no effort to make. Because the fruit needed to make the syrup need not be the best of the bunch, this is a great way to use some of those too many peaches or berries you couldn’t resist buying but couldn’t eat fast enough. The next afternoon a quick strain, a balancing of vinegar, and then straight into the bottle.
Blueberry Mint
My head is spinning with all sorts of combinations, but I became enamored with the thought of blushy pink drinks. Something pretty and soothing that would be wonderful at a wedding, or bridal shower, or just a soft pink to compliment the fading summer sky. Strawberries and blueberries were my fruit of choice, but the recipe can be adapted to any fruits you have around.
For those not as intrigued as I am by the thought of vinegar in a drink, I also made a beautifully refreshing watermelon cocktail. I truly love watermelon juice in my cocktails, though because this is not a shrub, it must be consumed within a day or two.
watermelon
Fruit Shrub Recipe
 
Combine equal weights of crushed fruit with white sugar in a bowl and leave on the counter for at least 24 hrs to macerate.
 
You may add herbs or other aromatics to your shrub at this point.
 
Strain the solids from the juice through a sieve, pressing out all the juice, and discard the solids.
 
Measure the volume of the syrup and stir in half that volume of cider or balsamic vinegar- or to taste.
 
My versions:
 
Strawberry and rose water: I added 2T of rose water to each cup of shrub
 
Blueberry Mint: fresh blueberries were crushed with whole sprigs of mint
Strawberry Rose Cocktail
serves one
 
Over ice, pour 3T of Gin
2T of strawberry rose shrub
1T of simple syrup
 
Stir together, then top off with sparkling water
 
 
Blueberry Mint Cocktail
serves one
 
Over ice, pour 3T vodka
2T blueberry mint shrub
1T simple syrup
 
Stir together, then top off with sparkling water
 
 
Watermelon Cooler
serves one
 
To make watermelon juice, put chunks of melon into blender and puree. Personally I don’t like mealy watermelon juice so I strain mine through a fine strainer. I find watermelon juice not sweet enough on it’s own, so I add in 1T of agave or simple syrup to each cup of juice.
 
Over ice
 
3T of vodka
2T cointreau
4oz sweetened watermelon juice
splash of sparkling water
 
 
Simple Syrup
makes 1.5c
 
combine 1 c of sugar with 1c water in saucepan.
 
Over medium high heat bring to boil, then turn off heat.
 
Allow to cool. Store in refrigerator.
 
 
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Thank you for coming by and reading my recipes.
I would love to hear how you are sharing with your friends.
If you have any questions or just want to say Hi, Please feel free to send me a note.
 
astackofdishes@gmail.com

TriColor Gazpacho: Deconstructed

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Light, garden fresh gazpacho is a favorite of so many, but for me the texture has always been a deterrent.  Not to be negative, but it always felt too much like pureed salsa and I get stuck on that. The idea of eating fresher than fresh vegetables is so wonderful, but the mushiness just left me feeling, meh.

So after thinking about it, I decided that what I found lacking was the soupy part of this cold soup, and why not have chunks of the tomatoes for a toothsome texture? And THEN! like a confirmation from the heavens, I picked up the latest special edition of Gourmet magazine, Easy Dinners. Now don’t you know, they have exactly the type of soup that I was thinking of! Though theirs is tomatillo based and mine has none, the concept is the same.

The broth aspect of the soup is made in the traditional manor of classic gazpacho, fresh vegetables are pureed to smoothness, but in my version the solids are removed from the liquid, which has drawn out all the essence of the vegetables leaving behind a broth that is incredibly rich in flavor. After that it’s just the matter of chopping up the rest of the vegetables and combining it all together.

This week at the market I was so thrilled to see so many varieties of tomatoes so early in the season, and the yellow, orange and red tomatoes are so beautiful together. So the base is comprised of yellow tomatoes, and the toss ins are orange and red.

My best advice when making this soup is to allow the added in veg to marinate in the base awhile before serving (an hour or two?)- and then maybe toss a few fresh bits on top for brightness of color. Another word of advice is to balance the acidity well. Tomatoes already have quite a bit of acid before adding some vinegar, and different varieties and levels of ripeness will vary too. So to keep your soup from tasting like a bowl of salad dressing, go easy with the vinegar at first and ease on up to balance. If you go too far, a minute pinch of sugar will bring you back down.

*And a bonus* The solids that are left after the straining are delicious and wonderful on their own. I used mine as a garnish on tostadas, but would also be great folded into filling for enchiladas for instance. It’s all the great flavor without the juice running down your arm (not that that’s a bad thing).

Deconstructed Gazpacho
serves 4
 
1.5# yellow tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5# orange tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5# red tomatoes, chopped and divided
.5 medium sized white onion, chopped and divided
1 jalapeño pepper, minced
1 large garlic clove, chopped
2T red wine vinegar (adjust to taste)
.5c water
2T olive oil
.5c chopped cilantro
 
In a blender, puree half of the yellow tomatoes, half the onion, half the jalapeño, the garlic and vinegar- until smooth.
 
Strain through a medium mesh sieve and press the solids to extract all the juice. Discard the solids.
 
Stir in the remaining tomatoes and onion. Add water, oil and salt and vinegar to taste.
 
Chill until cold, adding chopped cilantro right before serving.
 
Enjoy!
 

Ginger Rhubarb Tarts with Cardamom Creme Fraiche: Day 5 Irene’s Beans

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A Sunday morning repose, an afternoon respite. The crunch and yield of the pastry, the toothsome jammy filling complimented by a cool spiced cream. Easy elegance, how lovely.

Forgive me dear readers for this delayed post. I’ve been a bit of a traveling bum, and last week I indulged in not taking along my computer. Though I have missed being away, it was a delight to roam and indulge without distraction. If you haven’t had the chance to do the same in awhile, I invite you to treat yourself as soon as humanly possible! If you need me to write you an excuse note- just let me know, you have my permission.

I can clearly remember the first day of summer when I was a girl of about 9 years old. I remember waking, smelling the sweet air and thinking, “I have all day for ME! and weeks and weeks of it!”. I wore shorts every day, ran around the yard with my brother, trekked to the beach with a cooler of cold lemonade and sold my mother’s garden tomatoes on a table in the front yard to passing neighbors. This is the joy that I’ve been experiencing recently and truly, the air has been just as sweet.

This last installment of coffee treats is certainly not the least. The Gingered Rhubarb filling is a summer go to that I hope will become a favorite of yours. A healthy dollop onto a square of puff pastry makes a quick elegant jewel of a dessert, but the leftover sauce warmed and served over vanilla ice cream is another divine treat. Both of these desserts are good “emergency” sweets. Whenever I find myself in need of a last minute something, dashing for a pint of vanilla ice cream is simple enough, and a warm fruit sauce makes a near disaster sublime- and if the oven is on from dinner, frozen puff pastry takes just minutes to thaw and those babies can be popped into the oven in no time.

There is magic in puff pastry. Go for the magic.

I hope by this point you have taken a moment to visit Irene’s Beans. You will understand why I am so taken with her coffees. I can tell you that tasting the different styles has been a delight, and one I really want you to try for yourself.

So here comes the full on summer my loves. Enjoy an afternoon coffee and start planning your summer fun- and no kidding about that note, life is just too short.

Ginger Rhubarb Tarts with Cardamom Creme Fraiche 
makes about 2 cups
 
4c rhubarb cut into small chunks
1c strawberries rough chopped
1T fresh minced ginger
.5 c sugar
pinch of salt
prepared puff pastry- I used Dufours
4T creme fraiche
.5t cardamom- freshly ground
 
In a medium heavy saucepan place the fruits, sugar, ginger and salt. 
 
Slowly warm over low heat until the sugar draws out the moisture in the rhubarb and berries. Raise the heat and bring to the boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 mins.
 
The lumpy chunky rhubarb will break down and meld into the the berries into a beautiful sauce.
 
Place into a container and cool or place in fridge for future use.
 
To make the tarts:
 
*a word on puff pastry*
I know a lot of folks that can be intimidated- and you should be. Nah, just kidding, but puff pastry does need delicate handling. Puff pastry is a heavenly balance between butter and flour that is science at it’s best. It’s important to keep your pastry as cold as possible, and not handle it more than necessary, so as not to disrupt that balance. If things are taking longer than they ought to, just toss the pastry into the fridge to cool and then carry on. You can also prep these tarts in advance, store in the fridge and then pop into the oven when ready.
 
Preheat oven to 350˚
 
Thaw pastry in the fridge. If you have a marble pastry slab this is the perfect time to use it, if not, the counter is just fine.
 
Cut the pastry dough into 4 equal squares. 
 
Lightly sprinkle the clean workspace with a little flour. Gently roll out a square of pastry to approximately half it’s thickness.
 
With a sharp knife, cut into 2″ squares.
 
Place a healthy dollop if Rhubarb sauce in the center and place onto baking sheet.
 
Pop into the oven for approximately 12 mins until puffed and golden.
 
Combine the cardamom with the creme fraiche and let stand a few minutes before serving. Making the creme the day before is even better to allow the flavors to meld and the cream to thicken- but it’s all good.