A Stack of Dishes

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Gail Watson

Chicken Crusted with Wasabi Peas and Slaw with Thai Peanut Dressing

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The flavors here in Thailand are a symphony compared to a song. It is not unusual to take a bite and have so many taste sensations going on at once that it can be staggering: sweet, sour, spicy, deep umami and texture.

On my first trip to Chaing Mai everything was a delight (ok, the beans on the ice cream I could have done without), but this trip I am learning more of the nuances and quality of Thai food. There are cooks and chefs, and it’s apparent that it’s not the ingredients that separates the two, it’s the finesse, the grace and the balance.

What I can tell you is that the comparable ingredients that are available to me in NYC are not exactly the same as here. The limes I find sweeter here, and the tamarind more sour than tart- but don’t let that dissuade you.  Preparing Thai food is not difficult and the results are fantastic.

I love making this dish with the wasabi peas. The texture is fantastic and the bite of wasabi is not terrifically sharp when balanced with the chicken. My advice is the slice your chicken into thin pieces, or pound out thinly- otherwise the peas can burn before the chicken cooks through. An alternative is you can bake large pieces of chicken, such as breasts on the bone, and that would be fine.

The Thai dressing on the slaw will make you new friends. It’s so simple and so delicious that I invite you to make a batch and pour it over everything you can get your hands on. A great alternative on tomatoes and cucumbers out of the summer garden for instance.

I’ve never been a huge fan of mayonnaise rich cole slaw, nor of it’s picnic cousins potato and macaroni salad- but raw cabbage is delicious and tremendously healthy. I love this dressing on shredded cabbage. The red cabbage when mixed with the acid of the lemon juice draws out the color to a bright pretty pink. Both pretty and yummy- make more than you think- it goes fast.

Chicken Crusted with Wasabi Peas
serves 4
 
2# skinless chicken breasts sliced very thin
2c wasabi peas, roughly crushed
1c buttermilk
1 clove garlic crushed
grand pinch of salt
oil for frying pan
 
Note on frying: get our that honkin’ heavy cast iron frying pan and use it. As time goes by I am less and less a fan of nonstick pans. A well seasoned and loved cast iron pan can be a girl’s best friend. I used little oil for this recipe-less than I would in a nonstick- and my chicken cooked beautifully. Buffed biceps are a bonus.
 
combine garlic, salt and buttermilk in a bowl and allow to sit for a few minutes to flavor the buttermilk.
 
Meanwhile prepare the peas and place on a flat plate or low shallow bowl.
 
Preheat cast iron pan over medium heat with just enough oil to cover the bottom.
 
slip all the chicken into the buttermilk to coat and soak.
 
Press each fillet into the peas, pressing hard to get good adherence.
 
Cook the chicken on each side about 2-3 minutes or until cooked through.
 
serve immediately.
 
 
Cabbage Slaw with Thai Peanut Dressing
serves 4
 
4-6c finely shredded cabbage
 
1T toasted sesame oil
2T sugar
2T brown sugar
2T fresh lemon juice
2T fresh lime juice
2T chopped fresh mint
1 small thai chili finely chopped, or 2t jalapeno (optional)
3/4 c roasted, chopped, unsalted peanuts
 
Combine dressing ingredients into large bowl and stir to combine and melt sugars.
 
Toss in the slaw and allow to sit for 15 mins before serving.
 
 
 
 
___________________________
 
 
My partner and I are planning on organizing Thai Food cooking trips in the future. We have connections to some of the best Thai chefs. My partner is fluent in Thai and lived here for many years. The next trip will probably be in January to Northern Thailand. I would love to know if there is interest. Drop me a note if you would like to be placed on the mailing list for more information.
 
Sawaadii Khaa!
 

Coconut Raspberry Cake

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So far this year I have spent Memorial Day in Guatemala and now, the Fourth of July in Thailand. Last night I spent the holiday at an event hosted by the US consulate here in Chiang Mai. The evening started out with glasses of wine that were handed out, tied with red, white and blue ribbons. On cocktail tables were decorations of stars and stripes- which, rather than making me feel at home- was a dramatic and harsh contrast to the Southeast Asian aesthetic.

Earlier in the day I had been thinking about what I would be missing at home- BBQ, backyard cocktails, fireflies and fireworks… There is nothing to fill the gap here, except the possibility of ordering a hamburger from a restaurant chain. Is it patriotic to go to McDonald’s to celebrate our American history? The sad but true answer is probably yes, but never in my world. No, there is no satisfying substitute, and nor should there be.

Instead I like the contrast. I like remembering that I am far from home, and recreating Americanization everywhere is by no means necessary. To my mind there is already too much (Starbucks are everywhere, KFC and Sizzler too). However, when they played the National Anthem after the introductions- I felt proud, tho a bit silly. I came here to be HERE, but I am proud to be an American and to stand up one day a year and proclaim so is the very least I could do.

When the anthem was over I wanted to say, “Play Ball!!”, but my joke would have been irreverent. I stood up. I mouthed the words to the anthem (like we all do) and raised my glass in a toast. I proudly, very proudly, represented my country.

Before leaving I made up this Coconut Raspberry Cake. Not really thinking about The Fourth, but this would make a fantastic addition to a casual picnic or cookout. It’s made in a sheet pan making it easy to tote along. Were I to serve it on The Fourth I would pair it with blueberry sorbet or ice cream- and proudly show my colors.

 

Coconut Raspberry Cake
serves 6-8
 
.33c sugar
1c AP flour
.5t baking powder
.5c sweetened coconut
pinch of salt
.5c milk-warmed
3.5oz melted butter
 
2c raspberries (can be frozen)
2c sugar
1T lemon juice
 
2 large eggs-beaten lightly
2c sweetened coconut
.33c sugar
 
Preheat oven to 350˚- grease 6×12″ pan
 
Combine sugar, flour, bp, salt and coconut in a large bowl and stir to combine.
 
In small bowl combine the butter and milk. Pour into the flour mixture and gently stir to combine.
 
Pour batter into the pan and spread evenly. Bake until just lightly browned-12-15mins. The cake is not very thick, so don’t be tempted to overbake and brown.
 
While cake is baking: combine berries, sugar and lemon juice in heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Boil for 3-5 mins until thickened. 
 
Allow cake and jam to cool for 15 mins, then spread jam over cake, creating the middle layer.
 
In a separate bowl combine the eggs, coconut and sugar and stir to combine.
 
Spread coconut mixture on top of raspberry layer. Place back into the oven until coconut is golden brown- ~20 mins.
 
Allow to cool completely before serving- it’s even better chilled before cutting.

 

Summer Tomato Tart Tatin

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Were coming into the summer bounty of tomatoes, my favorite time of the year. This tart tatin is a welcome relief from the trays of tomato mozzarella salads, and yet, still a light and delicious way to enjoy summer’s bounty. The vinegar and sugar in this dish, along with the roasting, brings out a different layer of flavors in the tomatoes, causing them to intensify and sweeten into such goodness.
This dish is also one of those dishes that will generate oohs and ahhhs when presented to the table, but is unabashedly and devilishly simple to make. The tart tatin also comes together so quickly that you can run up off the beach and throw this into the oven. By the time sandy feet, and sun-screened skin are rinsed and dried, your beautiful tarts are ready to be flipped onto a serving dish and placed on the table.
When I made this recently for a luncheon I made two. While the first was in the oven finishing off, I readied the second. It only takes a few minutes to bake off the tart, so as  the first came out, in went round two. The tart tatins are best straight out of the oven. The liquor from the tomatoes soaks the pastry, making it saturated and divine, but left too long it becomes soggy and it loses it’s edge. This is not a good dish to make the day before, unfortunately.
If you want to prep ahead you can roll out and cut your pastry to size and leave on wax paper, parchment, or in between layers of saran, and then drop it on top of your pan when you’re ready to go. It really comes together very quickly, and this way you can keep a cleaner counter.
Serve this with a garden salad, or even top off with some feta cheese if you want a dish with a little more heft. Definitely serve with a crisp white wine.
Summer Tomato Tart Tatin
serves two generously
 
2T unsalted butter
1T white vinegar
2t brown sugar
1 clove garlic, minced
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
2 large fistfuls of cherry tomatoes, cut in half
one sheet of prepared puff pastry
 
Preheat oven to 425˚
 
In an 8″ (preferably nonstick) frying pan, melt the butter. Add the vinegar, sugar, garlic and thyme and cook over moderate heat for 2-3 mins until thickened.
 
Place tomatoes, cut side down into the thickened sauce, making the grouping as tight as possible.
 
Roll out the puff pastry and cut a circle 9″ in diameter. Place on top of the tomatoes.
 
Pop the works into the hot oven and allow to bake until brown and puffed up. Approximately 15 mins.
 
Remove from the oven and allow to sit for one minute.
 
Place a plate on top of the pan and invert the tatin onto the plate.
 
Serve immediately.
 
Viva Summer!!