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Gail Watson

Coral Rigatoni: A Twist on a Traditional Dish

December 28, 2012 by Gail Watson

It has been a fun week of socializing and celebrating. I made it down to Louisiana in the midst of the storm before Christmas. Dashing through the snow it was not. Traveling was a long day of waits and multiple connections, but as anyone that travels during the holidays knows- that’s pretty much par for the course.
Once I finally arrived here I hit the ground running- or rather eating. I have already overindulged in some incredibly delicious ham, gumbo and jambalaya. I just love me some Southern cooking! Ettouffe, sweet Gulf Shrimp, Red Beans and Rice!
I’m starting to think I may need to put some devoted time into becoming a respectable Southern cook. I may be able to discuss long and hard the best NYC pizza, or where to get the quintessential bagel- but I can’t even begin to compete in a discussion on roux making! {not yet that is…} There will be no complaints as this will be no hardship in our newly renovated kitchen.
As many of you know, my fiancee and I have been remodeling our kitchen this Fall. I did the planning when I was here over the summer. We hired an amazing contractor, and with the aid of FaceTime on Pam’s iPad, she managed the job while here and kept me updated, while I was in NYC frustrated and antsy. This week was the first time I got to see my new playground- and it is giggle deliciously wonderful! I give Pam a boatload of appreciation for doing such a beautiful job and making sure that my vision was maintained. It turned out better than I had imagined it!!
The final details, such as painting, are the project of the week. When it’s done I promise a reveal. {Can NOT wait to show you!}
But now back to this dish. I call it Coral Rigatoni because the tubes remind me of some exotic sea creature. The tubes bend and yawn with with open mouths, revealing deep pockets of goodness. There is an organic wave to the up-righted pasta, which I find so much more appealing than laid down straight soldiers. It’s a bit more work, but guaranteed to garner you oohs and ahhs at the buffet table.
The rigatoni are stuffed with kale and mustard greens in low fat cheese, and then baked in a lightened bechemel sauce. The result is a super tasty, much lower in saturated fat, much lower in overall calories, and a good daily dose of healthy greens. For a big flavor punch while keeping things on the lights side, I topped off the dish with some grated asiago. A pungent and tasty hard cheese that goes a long way when using just a little.
Coral Rigatoni Stuffed with Winter Greens
 If you are not a fan of kale and mustard greens you may swap for equal amounts of spinach.
serves a generous 8, or modest 10
 
1# dried large rigatoni
1-16oz container, fat free ricotta- best quality
1-16oz container, part skim ricotta- best quality
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium yellow onion, minced
1# frozen greens- kale/mustard greens etc., defrosted
2 large eggs
S&P
 
Bechemel
 
1 stick unsalted butter
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 good sized shallots, minced
.75c all purpose flour
4c skim milk, room temp or warmed
S&P
 
2c grated asiago for the topping
 
 
 
Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the rigatoni and gently stir.
 
Boil for 5 minutes- only half way- they should be undone in the middle. Drain, rinse and set aside.
 
In a sautee pan add a tablespoon of olive oil and on medium heat sautee the onion and the garlic for 3 minutes until softened and fragrant.
 
Drain the greens and give them a hearty squeeze to release as much water as your hands can muster. Chop finely. Add them to the pan and gently sautee for a minute as you stir and combine the onions and garlic. No need to cook the greens, just warm them through and thoroughly mix.
 
In a large bowl dump the greens along with the two ricotta cheeses and the eggs, S&P. If you like your filling cheesier you can some parmesan. 
 
Prepare the Bechemel: In a medium sized heavy saucepan, gently melt the butter over medium low heat, add the garlic and the shallots and gently sautee for 2 mins.
 
Dump in the flour and continuously stir for 3-4 minutes on low. You want to cook the flour taste out while taking care not to scorch the roux.
 
While stirring with a whisk, add the milk a third at a time to get a smooth creamy sauce. Continue to cook on medium low for 10 minutes until thick and bubbly. Again- you may make your dish more cheesy here- Honestly, I found it didn’t need it.
 
In a 9×13 inch pan, place a thin layer of the sauce on the bottom before filling the rigatoni.
 
Either in a large pastry bag or a large plastic bag with the corner cut in a .5″ slash, add the filling and use to pipe the cheese into the rigatoni. Twist off at the top of the cheese so the filling doesn’t ooze out the top, pinch the twist with your thumb and first finger and use the rest of your hand to squeeze out the mixture.
 
Fill a couple of tubes about 3/4’s full. When you have a small batch you can start to stand them up next to each other. Leave a little space between for the sauce to reach.
 
When all the tubes are filled and the pan is completely full, carefully spoon the bechemel over the top and especially between the tubes.
 
Top the whole thing off with the asiago.
 
Place into a 375˚ oven and bake until the tops of the pasta are crispy and golden and the sauce is bubbly.

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Filed Under: Healthy Recipes, main, main course Tagged With: coral rigatoni, healthy main course, healthy pasta, pasta, rigatoni

8 Tips For Making Successful Caramels

December 18, 2012 by Gail Watson

Man do I love me some caramels. They are an awesome holiday food gift and easy to make, and they are also easy to not do well.

People often say to me that they can cook but not bake. Their reasoning is that baking is specific and scientific, whereas cooking is more forgiving. To certain degrees this statement is true, but when it comes to candy making it is hard fact.

Variations in degrees, humidity, ratios or handling can make or break a candy. Some you can get away with, but honestly, not really.

Here are a few best practices and tips for making candies in general and specifically caramels.

1. Thermometer– Pre-test your thermometer for accuracy. A degree or two off can make the difference to how your sugar hardens. To test take a pot of boiling water and completely submerge the thermometer into the water without touching the bottom of the pot. Boiling water is 212˚- no higher or lower. Make a note of where your thermometer lands. If it’s a degree or two off, make a note and adjust your recipe accordingly.

2. Cleanliness– Some recipes call for an absolute grease free environment. Before making candy I rewash all utensils- bowl, pot, spatula, thermometer, measuring instruments, etc.- in hot soapy water and dry with paper towels or air dry. I do NOT use a used kitchen rag.

3. Pure Ingredients– make sure that the sugars you are using are contaminant free. If you used a wet spoon and dipped into the sugar bin, or used a measuring cup that was previously used for flour, this can contaminate the sugar. You can get away with this with baking, but not with candy making.

4. Prepare– Making candy is about timing and readiness. Have all ingredients and utensils prepared and laid out before you begin. Sugar temperatures can change quickly sometimes and you don’t want to be caught unawares.

5. Patience– Don’t rush the sugar boiling stage. A better caramelization happens with a slow development over time. It will also serve you by inadvertently overshooting the temperature when your head was turned for just a moment.

6. Eyes on the Prize– Boiling sugar is it’s own animal. It can turn quickly, and it can also hurt you. Boiling sugar is about the most dangerous thing in the kitchen- boiling oil being second.  If you get splashed with molten sugar it sticks to the skin and can cause nasty burns. So especially with inexperienced kitchen helpers, you MUST stay vigilant.

7. Don’t Stir– This is a very common mistake for first time candy making. Stirring boiling sugar causes the crystals to become unstable and start to bind. The result is grainy, cloudy or lumpy candy. When it comes to making pralines this happens to be the effect you want, but with caramels, absolutely not.  You can stir in the very beginning to incorporate the ingredients, but once it gets boiling, hands off! It will be tempting, even if sugar crawls up the sides, just let it go. Promise me-  you’ll be glad you did.

8. Don’t Touch– It’s also very common to want to poke your fingers into the just finished candy. After all it looks SO beautiful- but it will hurt you. Admire your work- from afar, and give it twice as much time as you think to cool. Sugar is dense and holds its temperature very well, so please err on the side of caution.

I’ve used several different recipes over the years. Martha Stewart printed a recipe in the latest Living issue {December 2012, pg 99} that was a bit different. Typically the heavy cream is added into the hot syrup once it has reached temperature. This recipe added the cream at the start. I was skeptical but I tried it and it was great. Pouring cream into hot sugar is a bubbling, steaming, terrifying and dangerous thing, not to mention often messy with cream boiling over onto the stove (the WORST to clean up). Adding the cream at the start avoided all that. This will now be my method of choice.

Martha Stewart’s Salted Caramels
modified from the December 2012 Martha Stewart Living Magazine
makes approx 120 pieces
 
vegetable oil, for greasing baking sheet
2c heavy cream
2.25c sugar
6T unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1.25c light corn syrup
.5t coarse salt- I used Maldon flaked salt
.5t pure vanilla extract
 
wax paper or cellophane wrappers
 
 
 
Lightly brush bottom ans sides of a 9×13″ rimmed baking sheet with oil. Line with parchment, leaving an overhang, and oil that as well.
 
In a heavy 5qt saucepan, combine the cream, sugar, butter and corn syrup. Bring to a boil over medium heat, and continue to boil without stirring, until the thermometer reads 248˚. It took me about 25 mins.
 
The cream will be bubbly and high at first. It will calm down as it reaches temperature and turn a beautiful caramel color.
 
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the salt and vanilla. Immediately pour into the prepared pan and do not scrape the bottom. Just let whatever pours out fall into the pan.
 
After 3 minutes, sprinkle the top with more salt to your taste.
 
Allow the caramel to rest, uncovered, overnight or at least 8 hrs.
 
Remove the caramel from the pan and peel away the paper. With a sharp knife cut the caramels to the shape you want. .75″x 1.25″ is the size she made.
 
Immediately wrap in cellophane or wax paper. 

Enjoy, be safe and have fun. Your friends will love you for making these.

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Filed Under: GF, gifts, gluten free Tagged With: candy, caramels, gifts, gluten free, sweets

Chocolate Mousse {No Cream}

December 17, 2012 by Gail Watson

Growing up my Mother owned a restaurant out on the North Fork called, The Cinnamon Tree. It was a cozy restaurant in the middle of the victorian fishing town. Before the restaurant business my parents had been in the antique business and had a great collection of remarkable things. The restaurant was decorated with antique lights, artwork, giant peer mirrors and stained glass. It provided more of a homey atmosphere, and two Chesterfield leather sofas flanked a large fireplace that, in the colder months, folks would gather around and drink away the darkness.

Most of the other restaurants in the area around served baked clams and shrimp cocktail. On her menu were more elegant things like, Chicken Cordon Bleu, Stuffed Flounder, and a dessert similar to this called: Chocolate Yummy Rummy.

It was a gorgeously decadent dessert that remained on the menu for the entire 24 years that the restaurant was open. It was light and delicate in consistency, and a little went a long way. I used to watch the cooks in the kitchen make enormous bowls of it and then ladle small dollops into individual parfait glasses. It is mesmerizing to watch chocolate fold into creaminess. Somewhere along the line my Mom gave me a copy of the recipe, but I have no idea where it might be, and then, I might not give away the family secret.

What I really liked best about the Chocolate Yummy Rummy is that it did not rely on whipped cream for its loft and moussiness. As a result it’s more chocolately and velvety.

For my holiday meal last night I looked for a comparable recipe and found one that I modified a bit. In retrospect I would add more rum for a slightly more boozy edge, but no complaints here- and if you’re serving a younger crowd you could leave it out entirely.

I served mine with a soft billowy sweetened whipped cream to offset the chocolate- but straight without embellishment is more than fine. This is the time to invest in the best quality chocolate you can get your hands on. If you want someone to fall in love with you, I would put this on the menu.

Chocolate Mousse
This is extremely decadent so a small bit goes a long way. This batch makes enough for 8-10 servings
The mousse needs time to set, so it’s best prepared the day before or morning you plan to serve it.
If you prefer not to add alcohol simply add 2T of water to replace it.
 
6oz best quality dark chocolate
8T unsalted butter, in pieces
2T espresso or strong coffee
4 large eggs, room temp, separated
.66c sugar
3T rum, or other brandy/alcohol of your choosing
.5 t vanilla
pinch of salt
 
Ready multiple glasses or bowls for filling, or a 3qt bowl.
 
Over simmering water in a heatproof bowl, melt the chocolate, coffee and butter, then set aside. Don’t overheat.
 
In a second large bowl, combine the yolks, sugar and rum and place over the water. With a whisk beat the yolks while warming them until the consistency is thick, and they are lemony in color. Take care not to overheat and scramble the yolks. 
 
Remove from the heat until the yolks cool slightly. Then combine the chocolate and yolk mixture and stir to combine. Set aside. The yolks should be quite warm, but not hot.
 
In a very clean stand mixer, combine the egg whites and pinch of salt and beat on high until they get fluffy. Then sprinkle in 1T of sugar over egg whites and continue to beat until they are stiff but not grainy. They should have a slight gloss. When you remove the whip the peak will fold, but not melt back in.
 
With a spatula take a hefty spoonful of the whites and gently stir into the chocolate mixture to lighten. Then add the rest of the whites and gently fold in to the chocolate mixture. Take care not to beat down the airiness. 
 
Ladle or pour the mixture into your glasses or bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hrs at least.
 
The mousse can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept in the fridge.
 
Remove from the fridge right before serving.
 
 
 
 

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Filed Under: chocolate, dessert, GF, gluten free Tagged With: chocolate, chocolate mousse, no cream chocolate mousse, no cream mousse

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