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The Amazing Delicata Squash Served With Grilled Steak and Espresso Vinegar

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The gorgeous colors of fall. Golden Delicata squash sautéed to perfection.

Delicata is the perfect name for this lovely squash. It’s typically smaller than most robust fall squash, around 5-6″ in length, and it has a beautiful yellow color contrasted with dark green stripes. A fashion maven as well as a delight.

And it gets better- the skin is so fine that there is no need to peel! Taking a knife to a tough skinned fall squash can be a wrestling match sometimes, and that alone can be enough of a deterrent for me to just skip it altogether. The sweet delicata is my new best squash friend. Easy to slice, no need to peel, no need to lug some monster squash home from the market- and is just as bit delicious and healthy.

I tossed mine into a pan and they were done in just a few minutes. No need to pull out a baking sheet and roast, just a simple sautee and they are ready to serve. Delicata is also more delicate in taste too. I like my squash with a little bit of sweetness to it, so I added just a small touch of honey into the pan and finished with a few sprigs of fresh thyme.

Steak grilled to perfection is splashed with some espresso vinegar.

To accompany my squash I pan grilled off some sirloin steaks. The seasoning I kept to the classic, simply lots of salt and fresh ground black pepper. For the finish I splashed on some yummy espresso balsamic vinegar that I purchased last weekend when I was visiting my Mother in Greenport. There is a new store out there right on Main St. called Vines and Branches. It’s a gorgeous store stocked with rows and rows of flavored olive oils and balsamic vinegars. Both regular dark and white balsamic vinegars are infused with some amazing flavors such as cranberry pear, tangerine and juniper berry. Mother, daughter Olivia, and I circled around the shop and taste tested tiny sips of vinegar. Sounds like an odd thing to do to take vinegar straight, but they were all pretty delicious just like that! Needless to say, I walked out with a small armload that I just couldn’t resist.

The dark espresso vinegar I used on the steak has a deeply intense coffee flavor. Startling and fantastic! The little bit of the sweetness from the vinegar mellows the bitter edge of the espresso and the acidity adds the right touch of zing for the beef. They do ship, so be sure to check out their site.

It doesn’t take much to add a little something extra to a standard dish and elevate it to a place that you wouldn’t have imagined. However, if you’re not inclined to try the espresso vinegar- try a splash of traditional dark balsamic vinegar- or just leave it out altogether. A good steak is a good steak, and there ain’t nothing wrong with that.

 
Delicata Squash and Perfection Grilled Steak w/ Espresso Vinegar
It took me only 15 minutes to get this meal to the table. The squash sautés quickly as the meat is grilling.  A side of polenta is a nice addition if you’re looking for a starch.
serves 4
 
2 average sized delicata squash
2 cloves garlic
2T honey or brown sugar
2T olive oil
3T water
4-6 sprigs of fresh thyme
Maldon salt to finish
 
4 4-6oz sirloin steaks, ~1″ thick, set out 30 minutes before cooking
 
 
Preheat a grillpan on the stovetop on medium high for 10-15 minutes.
 
Generously season the meat with salt and fresh ground black pepper.
 
Place the meat on a greased grill pan. Allow to grill for 5 minutes untouched. Then flip and grill another 5 minutes for medium rare. Add another 2 minutes for medium and 4-5 for well done.
 
After removing from the grill let the meat rest on the cutting board for a few minutes to allow the juices to settle into the meat.
 
Meanwhile, while the meat is grilling you can prepare the squash.
 
Wash the squash and slice in half. Scrape out seeds and slice into .5″ half rounds.
 
In a large frying pan add olive oil and swirl around to coat pan set on medium heat. 
 
Crush and chop garlic and add to the pan and sauté for 1 minute. Toss in squash and arrange so all pieces have contact with bottom of the pan.
 
After about 3 minutes add water, thyme and honey and cover pan. Allow the squash to steam until the water has evaporated.
 
Remove the cover and shake pan to keep the squash from sticking and burning. Flip after 2 minutes. If the pan gets too hot and starts to burn, add a little more water to the pan.
 
The squash will turn a little translucent when done. Do not overcook to mush. 
 
To serve, slice the meat and arrange on plates. Splash with vinegar. Add the squash to the plate and sprinkle with a nice healthy pinch of maldon salt.
 
Enjoy!

Saffron Aioli Oil Lobster with Creamy Basil Pasta

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I’ve been reading all summer about the bountiful harvest of Maine lobsters- and it’s been killing me. Since I’ve been on the road so much, I haven’t had the chance to get my hands on any!!! Finally….Finally! I had the time and logistics to make a purchase.

Since last summer I’ve been hankering for a lobster roll. One of the magazines around here did a story on the best lobster rolls in NYC and it’s been on my mind ever since. Sure- we can get lobsters all year round- but it, well…. just didn’t seem right to eat a lobster roll without leaves on the trees.

So on Saturday I was in the neighborhood of my favorite fish monger and for cheap, chose me a beauty, and lugged him home.
But the crazy thing is that when I finally got home I didn’t want a lobster roll- I wanted something schmancier. Not sure why exactly, I guess because I thought this lobster was just so beautiful I wanted to do him justice. I shouldn’t get like that, I mean, I’ve steamed and eaten a boatload of lobster in my days- maybe because it was just the two of us?
I steamed him up the night before and let the whole thing chill overnight. Meanwhile I mulled over my options.
Lobster is a rich meat and needs a substantial sauce to go with it. The classic melted butter is case in point. I thought about making a handmade mayonnaise which I could make tangy and ethereal, almost like a sabayon- and that lead me to aioli- which lead me to an oil, rather than a mayonnaise.

I mashed up a clove of garlic and crushed in a healthy pinch of saffron, then drizzled in just a small bit of olive oil and made a gorgeous orange-y yellow paste. Then I added a bit more oil, and a pinch of salt, and let it rest a bit to mellow.
To accompany the earthy and low tone lobster, I made a fine linguini, tossed in some fresh chopped basil, a healthy grind of black pepper and a dollop of mascarpone. A little bit of pasta water added in spoon by spoon was all it needed to make a creamy sauce. It had the strength to partner with the lobster and the basil added the top note of freshness that the plate needed.

Can I tell you what? This-dish-is-DEEEEELICIOUS! The kind of delicious that you want to bang on neighbor’s doors and make them take a bite. The kind of delicious that you should really be planning an evening around it- especially a romantic one.

The kitchen smelled of saffron and garlic, and the always alluring, basil- and then the taste Oooooohhh…. sensual on all levels.

Now go grab a lobster- and your lover- and make a memorable meal. Then please, please, write me back and tell you about it. My love is 1500 miles away right now- I would appreciate the vicarious thrill.

Saffron Aioli Lobster and Creamy Basil Linguini
serves 2
 
2- 1.25-1.5# lobsters
1 clove fresh garlic
generous pinch of saffron
.25 c olive oil
S&P
 
 
5oz fine linguini- dried
3T fine chopped fresh basil
3T mascarpone or creme fraiche
reserved pasta water (put aside a cup, you won’t need it all)
S&P
 
 
 
I served my lobster cool/room temperature, but this can me made hot and just keep a bowl of the aioli oil on the side for dipping.
 
To be just a little humane, I put my lobster in the freezer for about an hour to lull him to never never land. I get a little freaky about active lobsters being plunked into a pot. 
 
In a large pot with a lid, bring 1.5″ of water to the boil. Add the lobster and cover the pot. Steam for 7 then turn off the heat and let sit for 2 more mins. DO NOT overcook your lobster. I find this method of gentle cooking at the end yields more tender meat and prevents over cooking.
 
Remove the lobsters and let cool a few minutes before breaking apart.
 
In a pestle, crush a clove of garlic into a rough paste, add the saffron, a T or so of oil and salt and pound into a creamy paste. Then add remaining oil and stir to combine. Allow to sit for at least 20 mins.
 
__________
 
For the pasta- cook the pasta to al dente, approximately 7 minutes, drain- reserving a cup of cooking water, rinse quickly and toss with a glug of olive oil.
 
In a large bowl put the mascarpone and basil, S&P and enough pasta water to mix it all into a creamy sauce. Then simply toss in the pasta.
 
 
 
 
 
Enjoy!!!
 
 

Grilled Steak with Tomatillo Salsa

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Juicy sliced steak served with crispy tomatillo salsa, grilled corn and string beans.

The summer days are skittering towards Labor Day and it’s soon back to school in the Northeast. This time of year always puts a panicked rush in my step to get to the grill while the gettin’ is good. Of course, this is silly, since we dedicated New Englanders are sometimes known to grill in the snow- but you know what I mean.
It’s the long shadows of late summer sunsets, accompanied by the sound of birds and a far off hum of a lawnmower. It’s sitting on a stoop while shucking corn, it’s the smell of charcoal and smoke. Bare legs, sticky fingers, sprinklers, ice pops and bug bites on your ankles.
Of course, all of THAT is even pretty silly, since I write to you from my tiny NYC apartment with not a patch of lawn in sight- but I can conjure up a memory just as good as anyone, and the smell of corn silk is as powerful as Proust’s madeleines to me.
I do have great memories as a kid when the biggest challenge was getting sand out between my toes after the beach, or beating my brother to the last cherry Ice Pop. This summer has come as close as I’ve come in years to those care free days. I’ve spent more time traveling this summer than at home- a total of 10 weeks out of the past 14 have been without boundary, without schedule or demand- with full time enjoyment and exploration. I think that was what I loved best as a kid- exploring.
Some kids play sports and spend their summers in motion. I was more of a dreamer. I would write stories and make them into little books. I was the kid that would spend hours glueing shells that I had collected onto boxes and mirrors. My brother and I would dress up and act out plays we invented, and even as a kid- I cooked and baked.
I hope you try making this tomatillo salsa to go with your steak. It’s super quick to put together and it has a  tangy taste that sets off the fat in the meat perfectly. It’s really more of a relish than a real salsa- no real bite or kick, but rather an accent to the beef.
The summer days are fleeting- but still many delicious days ahead.
Grilled Steak with Tomatillo Salsa
serves 6
 
2# quality steak
1# tomatillos
.5c EVOO
.5c fresh basil, minced
.5c fresh cilantro, minced
.25c white onion, fine diced
juice of 1 plump lemon
Salt to taste
 
For the perfect steak- first season the meat with ground black pepper and allow to come to room temp for about 30 mins.
 
Next: heat your grill and get it HOT. Sear the meat for 1-3 mins on each side to get that heavenly umami flavor. Not sure about the sealing juices thing- there is debate on that- but to be sure- DO NOT press down on your meat as it cooks and DO NOT pierce it with a fork to turn it- use a spatula or tongs.
 
After the sear move the meat to a lower temperature area of the grill and close the lid. Allow it to slowly “bake” for another 5 minutes- longer for medium or well done.
 
Poke the meat for doneness. If it feels springy, it’s still on the rare side. If it yields some but still has some bounce, it’s medium range. If it is so tight it slaps you back when you poke it- you’ve reached well done.
 
Allow the meat to rest for a good 5 mins before slicing.
 
For the salsa, simply combine everything in a bowl and stir together. You can make this earlier in the day and allow it to marinate a bit. Just serve it at room temperature, not too cold or straight from the fridge.