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| Crunchy Fergolotta enjoyed with some after dinner port
Fregolotta was a word that had never passed my lips until my lovely Lauren told me about it. It’s a lightly sweet, crunchy, nutty, biscuit cookie that is often served at the end of the meal in the Veneto region of Northern Italy.
Now allow me to digress about Lauren for a moment. Beautiful, fair curly haired Lauren has been my business partner at A Simple Cake for the past year and some and one of the best persons to ever happen into my life. She not only is so tremendously talented as a baker and an artist, but she is also an incredibly beautiful person, both inside and out. She and I share a similar passion for food, which has lead to some tremendous discoveries for me- as in the case here.
 Lauren described to me this thin crackery treat and it was all new to me. Fregolotta is not just a treat, but an experience as well. It is meant to be broken at the table and eaten. The hard cookie is balanced on a reserved almond, and then with the back of a coffee spoon, tapped until it breaks into bite size pieces. She told me the story that is was her Mother that makes it in their family.
While traveling through Italy, Betsy Bohl and her husband became enamored with this treat when after each meal it was presented along with the coffee cups. No two restaurants made them the same, which is so typically Italian in my mind. Some more cakey, and some more grainy and powdery. Each baker made it to his or her own taste, following no rules. Betsy returned home and after researching several recipes, changed the balances to get the right texture and taste that suited her.
Thank you to Betsy for sharing her recipe with me, which I believe is an adaption from Lydia Bastianich. Fregolotta is packed with chopped almonds, but it’s the inclusion of corn meal that gives it a unique gritty crunch that is so satisfying.
The recipe called for spring form pans, but I used regular pans and lined the bottom with a paper doily. The cakes slipped out without any resistance. I used 6″ pans and the recipe called for 5″. Due to the way I divided the dough my cakes were a little on the thick side, so next time I would divide them into thinner batches. To transport and package them I would set them in a box, or place a cardboard round underneath to keep it from breaking. Be sure to include a little note on the cracking and almond technique.
 Besty Bohl’s Almond Fregolotta
makes 4 5″ cakes
1.5c toasted almonds, chopped
.75c sugar
1c flour
.75c corn meal
.25t salt
1.5t vanilla
10T butter, softened
1 egg yolk
2T heavy cream
Preheat oven to 350˚. Grease pans and line with parchment or paper doily.
Combine almonds, flour and cornmeal and salt in a bowl.
In a mixer combine the butter and sugar and beat smooth. Add egg yolk and vanilla and stir.
Add butter mixture to the flour mixture and toss together with a fork to blend. It should be crumbly. Add the heavy cream to make a shortbread like dough.
Divide the dough between the pans and press lightly into an even layer.
Bake for approximately 20 mins and then check for doneness. The cakes should be nicely browned and pull away from the sides of the pan
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Though wonderful just on their own, these are also fantastic served with ice cream or fruits. I can see grappa along side these or a nice demi tasse of espresso.
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dessert
{Day 4} A Tradition Renewed- Marzipan Fruits
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| Marzipan Cherries
The tradition of modeling marzipan (almond paste candy) for the holidays is an old one and if found in many different cultures. The Italians make it and so do many Northern European countries-Germany, Sweden etc. Hand made marzipan is an art that has sadly waned. Most that you see these days is machine made and with a low quality of almond paste. The colors are sprayed on and for the most part they are just ghastly.Hand making marzipan is not difficult to do and a fantastic thing to make with kids as it doesn’t require a stove or oven- and mistakes can just be nibbled out of sight.
Years ago I had a marzipan business with a woman named Kim Jurado that we called Bella Dulce. We made gorgeous marzipan that we put into small rustic wire baskets from artisans in Mexico, or tiny wooden crates to look like imported fruits. One of my favorites was to build the marzipan into topiaries that brides would use as centerpieces. Stephen Spielberg had us make tall gorgeous topiary cones for his movie Armistad and our beauties also made it into Dean and Deluca and Williams Sonoma catalogs. In those days we had a legion of workers hand making marzipan. All day long hands were rolling, shaping and dusting lumps of almond paste into rows and rows of beautiful bright almond candies. It was an artisanal business before it was vogue.
Marzipan is made from blanched almonds and sugar into a dough. It’s possible to make it from scratch, but to be honest, I don’t find it time or cost effective. I’ve tested a lot of marzipan over the years, and by far the best is made by American Almond (see Holiday Resource page). A lot of marzipan out there has a high sugar content, leaving it super sweet and lean on good almondy flavor. American Almond has the highest almond to sugar ratio which makes it heavenly. Marzipan does not come cheap but most fruits are about a half to one ounce each, so a pound goes a long way.
 There are simple tools needed to shape the dough, but mostly you can get by with what you have around the house. Toothpicks, a knife and a dowel stick work well- or you can purchase modeling tools that are typically used for clay. What you will need to get is powdered food coloring and gel food coloring, paint brushes, cloth covered wire and paper leaves- all of these things can be purchased at NY Cake and Baking Supply.
 Marzipan is such a great medium that you can do many other things with it. The fruits are classic, but little Santa hats are awesome, or Xmas light bulbs. It’s great for making leaves and mushrooms for Buche de Noel or reindeer antlers for cupcakes.
Unused marzipan can be saved for future use if stored properly. Wrapped tightly and put into an airtight container it will keep it for several weeks. For longer keeping it can go in the fridge.
 How to Make Marzipan Cherry, Pear and Plums
yields 20-30 fruits depending on size
1# American Almond Marzipan
juniper green food paste
golden yellow food paste
royal blue food paste
red powdered food coloring
purple or burgundy powdered food coloring
soft paint brush-like a blush brush
cone tool (or rounded toothpick)
veining tool (or butter knife)
green florist wire 24 gage
small paper rose leaves
Queen Anne Cherry
Paste food coloring is very intense, so start out with tiny dots and add on from there. You can always add more. Use a toothpick dipped into the color pot and dot the marzipan then knead through.
The cherries should have a soft golden yellow color.
Next follow the grid above. Pinch off a small chunk and roll between your palms to make a ball, then using the cone tool make an indentation on the top- or use a toothpick to ream in a dent. Then with the veining tool or the back side of the butter knife, draw down from the hole and make the crease of a cherry cheek.
To color tap out a small amount of red powder color onto a plate. Using just a small amount dab the brush into the color, just as you would if you were applying powdered blusher. With a circular motion paint on the “cheeks” of the cherries.
Finish off with a 3″ length of wire. Fold down one end to make a knob and then curve the stem into a natural shape. Tuck into the hole in the top.
Pear
I used the juniper green for the paste color. Follow the directions above to tint the marzipan.
To make the pear shape first roll a knob of dough into a ball. Then, using your fingers coax one end into the neck of the pear. Then give a little tap on the bottom to square it off just a little bit.
Pierce the top of the pear to make the stem dent. Then on the bottom of the pear create four dents which create that round bottom look a pear has.
Dust just a liiiiiiitle bit of red onto the sides of the pears and finish off the top with a paper leaf.
Plums
Plums have an ashy blue grey line in the crease which I personally love. Color the marzipan a soft blue using the royal blue paste.
Then roll the marzipan into a ball and then into an oblong ball.
As with the cherry make a dent at the top and crease down the length of the plum. Plums have deeper creases though. I make a fairly keep crease and then soften the cut edge with my fingers. I then pinch the seam closed a little to give that cheeky look.
Dust the plums with the color and for these it takes a lot, avoiding getting color into the crease. Finish off with a paper leaf.
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Once made the marzipan can be left out to dry a little. Left out indefinitely they will turn to stone. If you intend for them to be eaten, or given as gifts, keep them under plastic or present in a clear plastic box or cello bag. Both of these can be purchased at Glerup.
*see resource page for links to Glerup, NY Cake and American Almond*
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{Day 3} The AFTER treat: Biscotti
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| Rosemary Lemon Biscotti served with Homemade Chamomile Cordial
Biscotti is always the “after”. Afternoon, after dinner, after a long morning…. This crunchy treat offers a mild sweetness that is just the right kind of soft kiss an after requires.I try to keep a jar of these around- but they have a great tendency to disappear in short order. Though the baking of biscotti is a two step baking process, the good news is this recipe is so simple that it only takes minutes to pull it all together and create a new batch. Not too long ago, right before a dinner party I decided a gift of wine was just not enough to bring along- so while I showered the first baking was complete, and while make up was applied, the second go round was finished off. I can’t say I recommend this method, but it can be done when you need to.
 The secret to this recipe is that these are made with Olive Oil rather than butter, which is always on hand and no need to wait for it to soften like butter does. I created two versions for today. The first is a Lemon Zest and Rosemary, which is really lovely as a digestive. I serve it up with some gorgeous Chamomile Cordial that I made. {The recipe will be in a future post} These two together offer a soft sweet ending to a long meal. No cloying thump to your sensibilities here.  The second version is Dark Chocolate Cherry. Chunks of 72% chocolate are tossed in with plump dried cherries. This is a slightly sweeter version than above and it perfect for that afternoon pick me up. When gift giving it’s best to package these up into cellophane bags- which you can get from Glerup {see Resource page} The cellophane not only makes a beautiful presentation but also keeps the biscotti crisp and snappy.  Lemon Zest Rosemary Biscotti
makes 24-30
.5 c mild olive oil
.75c granulated sugar
.25c Light brown sugar
3 large eggs
3.25 c AP flour
1T baking powder
1/4t salt
2T chopped fresh rosemary
zest from one lemon
juice from one lemon
In a large bowl combine sugars, flour, bp, salt, rosemary and zest. Stir to combine
In separate bowl combine eggs, oil and lemon juice- mixing thoroughly
Toss the oil mixture into the flour mixture and stir to combine. I use my hands to get the dough even. It will be a little thick and like a soft cookie dough.
Make two long logs about 3″ wide on a baking sheet
Bake in a 375˚ oven for approximately 20 minutes until golden and there is only a gentle spring when the tops are touched. If it gives too much the biscotti are not done in the middle and give it another few minutes.
When ready remove the biscotti from the oven and allow to cool for 15-20 minutes. I am always impatient about this but it’s really worth the wait, the slices will be neater.
When cool(ish), using a sharp serrated knife cut the biscotti into 1/3″ slices and arrange on cookie sheet.
Return to oven and bake 10 mins until golden and toasty looking. Then flip each cookie and bake again for another 10 mins or so.
Dark Chocolate Dried Cherry Biscotti
I used the exact same recipe as above with these changes:
Replace the rosemary, lemon zest and juice with a .5 c of dark chocolate chopped into chunks and .75c of dried cherries
Enjoy!
and remember- the cordial recipe is coming soon- sign up for the mailing list and be sure not to miss it.
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